Kim Dinan is a writer from Portland, Oregon. In May of 2012, Kim and her husband Brian sold all of their stuff, quit their jobs, and left home to travel the world. Starting in South America, they backpacked their way from Ecuador to Brazil before flying to India where Kim drove a rickshaw 3,000 kilometers from Rajasthan to Kerala. Please enjoy this week-in-the-life of Kim in India!
Nora’s Note: India is such an interesting place – it tends to inspire love-it-or-hate-it experiences. I love to learn how other travelers experience the world! Me? I didn’t have a good time, but as with all things travel-related, it had more to do with me than the place itself. Of course, the butter in my eyes didn’t help. Curious? Heaven and Hell: Panchakarma as a Reflection of (My Time In) India
This post was originally published in 2013. It has since been updated for accuracy of links and content.
Day 1: Sunday
Palolem, India.
8 a.m. I roll out of bed and walk into the kitchen of my apartment to make coffee. My husband is still snoozing beside me and a friend is visiting from home, asleep on a mat in the living room. My husband and I have been living in Goa, India for two months now, taking a โbreakโ from the constant movement of traveling.
10 a.m. I head out on a morning run, happy to finally establish a bit of a fitness routine on the road.
3 p.m. Itโs time to make some travel plans. My friend, Wendy, is in town for three weeks and is ready to see India. We head to the internet cafรฉ (the internet and the power are down in my apartment, a regular occurrence) and walk out three hours later with bus tickets to Hampi, plane tickets to Delhi, and train tickets to Dharmshala. Total cost? Less than $200.
See also: Tour the Most Luxurious Train in the World – in India!
Day 2 – Monday
Palolem, India.
1 p.m. Wendy and I walk 15 minutes to the beach where we bob in the warm waters of the Arabian Sea. After a few hours of sun we retreat to a beachside restaurant where we eat Pakora and drink Kingfisher, an Indian beer.
9 p.m. Wendy and I stand in a vacant parking lot waiting for our overnight bus to Hampi. Our rickshaw driver insists that the bus will stop here to fetch us but we arenโt so sure. The bus is twenty minutes late and then thirty minutes late but finally it arrives. We climb into our sleeper berths and try to catch some sleep.
Day 3 – Tuesday
Hampi, India.
3 a.m. Sleep isnโt coming. The bus is all over the road and weโre thrown around our sleeper berth like weโve climbed into a washing machine. The only relief comes when the bus stops on the side of the road. We all disembark and pee in a nearby field.
8 a.m. We arrive in Hampi and catch a rickshaw, allowing the driver to take us to his favorite guesthouse. We haggle over the price of the room for a bit. When weโve settled on the cost we throw our bags down and catch a few hours of blissful sleep.
3 p.m. After a cold shower we set out on foot to explore the ancient ruins of Hampi. The temples and sculptures are absolutely amazing. Weโre blessed by holy men and kissed by the temple elephant Lakshmi. Itโs an amazing afternoon.
7 p.m. Wendy and I have dinner with a girl we befriended at a temple earlier in the day. Sheโs Canadian, traveling alone, and we hit it off immediately. We eat, talk and laugh into the night. We donโt drink, though. Hampi is a holy town and alcohol is not allowed.
Day 4 – Wednesday
Hampi, India.
7 a.m. We wake early today to walk down to the river and watch the temple elephant take a bath. Women in colorful saris are washing their clothes on the ghats. Kids in blue and white uniforms are on their way to school. I drink chai from a roadside stand and revel in Indian village life.
10 a.m. We hire a rickshaw for another day of exploring the sites. My favorite stop is the Monkey Temple. Itโs a 600-stair climb into the air. The views from the top are amazing.
4 p.m. We grab a quick snack and then catch the overnight bus back to Goa where we hustle to catch a plane to Delhi. Iโm tried and dirty and Iโd love to just relax. Instead, I heave my backpack on and start the next leg of our adventure.
Day 5 – Thursday
Delhi, India.
8 a.m. Weโve made it to Delhi! Weโre at the New Delhi train station waiting to catch our train to Dharmshala. Indians stare as we drink coffee and try to rouse ourselves awake. The smell of urine, feces, incense and spices whirl around us in the breeze.
10 a.m. We’ve boarded the train and settled in for the long-haul, a 12-hour trip to Dharmshala.
3 p.m. I’m hungry so I buy chai and snacks from a man selling food on the train. I lay back in my sleeper berth and read a book.
Day 6 – Friday
Dharmshala, India.
9 a.m. We have discovered the most amazing porridge at the Moonpeak Cafรฉ in Dharmshala. We eat and drink coffee and plan our day. We’ll be walking the kora and visiting the Dalai Lamaโs temple. Dharmshala is the home of the Tibetan government in exile. The Dalai Lama escaped here 49 years ago. He has been able to safely enter Tibet since.
11 a.m. We walk the kora around the temple of the Dalai Lama. Buddhists walk this path each morning, leaving mani stones as offerings. Prayer flags whip in the wind and the white peaks of the Himalayas are visible in the distance. This place is absolutely stunning.
4 p.m. Back at the Moonpeak Cafรฉ we order coffee and surf the internet for a few hours. I try to get a bit of writing work done and answer emails.
6 p.m. We head to Momo Cafรฉ for a dinner ofโฆ momoโs! Momoโs are a traditional Nepalese dish much like a wonton. We eat a delicious meal and talk about our day before heading to bed. We have a long day tomorrow – weโre hiking in the mountains!
Day 7 – Saturday
Dharmshala, India.
7 a.m. We leave our guest house and begin the climb to Truind, a ridge high in the hills above Dharmshala with views of the Himalayas.
9 a.m. Weโre getting closer to our destination and stop off at a chai shop along the trail. I desperately love the chai stands in India, you can really find them everywhere.
12 p.m. Weโve made it to the top of Triund! The views of the mountains are spectacular. We settle down to eat lunch and take in the view.
4 p.m. Back at the guest house we rest our weary legs and take a cold shower (the hot water doesnโt come on until 7 p.m.).
8 p.m. Weโre in bed and reading before the lights go out. Tired from the long hike and anticipating our return to Goa tomorrow.
Kim Dinan and Brian traveled through India before catching the border into Nepal for a few months of trekking in the Himalayas. Now they’re back in the U.S. for a few months of dog-sitting. Where theyโll head next is anyoneโs guess. On Kim’s blog www.so-many-places.com as well as her author and freelance writer site, Kim writes about discovering the world and fighting like hell for her dreams. Follow her on Twitter.
Thanks for sharing my week with the world!
Thank YOU, Kim, for having such a great week! ๐
I love the photo with the stone carvings. I want to be there right now! Thanks for sharing this week in the life.
That carving was in Hampi… so beautiful and impressive.
Wowww…such an amazing person u r ,kim…very impressed wid ur limitless enthusiasm for travelling..respect
Thank you Himanshu, that is very sweet of you.
Sounds like you had a wonderful time in Dharamshala. Mcleodganj is one of my most favorite places in India :).
Happy journey and travel safely!
Dharamshala was AMAZING. I loved it so much. I’d like to go back and live there for a few months. It’s a magical place.
Thank you for sharing your week with us all Kim. It sounds like a fast track of my six month adventure through India in 2011! This year we did another six months in India and my favourite had to be climbing up to Triund. I am not a walking fan, and yet it was one of the most breathtaking experiences of my life. I’ve written about it here: http://www.paddyandmaddy.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-only-way-is-up-trek-to-triund.html
Wow. that sounds amazing. There is still so much I want to do in India… I’m so sad I didn’t make it to Varanasi. I will be back for sure. I’ll put Triund on the list.
Kim sounds like you and your husband are having a great time! Those are the type of days and weeks I am working towards for my family and I. We are just starting to plan our strategy for travels. Keep rocking!
Have fun planning!!! I made so many plans and then they all changed ๐ But it’s so fun to look forward to the adventure.
Sounds exciting!
But………
How can you leave Hampi on an overnight bus for Goa, then catch a plane to Delhi and then be in the centre of Delhi at 8am the night after leaving Hampi by bus?
No doubt a great trip but no doubt longer than a week.
It was an overnight bus out of Hampi… fly out of Goa to Delhi (same day). It was a whirlwind and I wouldn’t recommend traveling so fast but a friend was in town visiting. There’s a reason I picked this week to highlight and not the week where I sat in my apartment in Goa writing for twelve hours a day!
This is quite the busy Indian adventure but it does sound amazing. India seems to be a fantastic place to visit and seems to offer a great deal across the whole country I still hope to get to India before long and experience some of this for myself!
Great run down of you time with some awesome pictures!