“Hey! Guys? Bar! We need a bar! Focus, man! You’re all over the place!” yelled my buddy out the window of our car, which was convoying behind another carload of friends.
As we disintegrated into fits of laughter at my friend’s overwhelming dedication to the cause (this was the third time he’d leaned out the window to loudly implore our leading car to stop), we reflected on the day thus far. We’d already stopped at a few rum shops enroute to – and now coming home from – Sulphur Springs. One final stop to enjoy sunset at a local rum shop high in the mountains of Grenada was indeed in order.
The Drive to Sulphur Springs
Whilst some friends from Norway were visiting my makeshift home of Grenada, we drove deep into the rainforest in the middle of this mountainous island, in search of Sulphur Springs.
Although Grenada isn’t large, its narrow roads contort around the hills and mountains such that driving anywhere is an adventure enjoyed at about 40kms/hour.
So given the couple of hours’ journey each way to Sulphur Springs, multiple stops at rum shops along the way helped to lubricate the drive.
Rum shops line the road in Grenada; they’re often simple structures as seen above. The toilet? Go out back, try to keep out of people’s line of sight, and knock yourself out.
The drive to Sulphur Springs was half the fun, as you’ll see from the video at the end of this post. There’s so much to look at, and the harder you look, the more you see.
How to Get There
The only way to get to Sulphur Springs is to go with somebody who knows where it is, and who has a hardy 4×4. There are no street signs, maps are unreliable when it comes to anything other than main roads, and asking bystanders for directions is far from a sure thing.
After an hour and a half of climbing through the naturalistic Grand Etang rainforest area, the roads became (even more) impossibly narrow and rough, and finally dead-ended unceremoniously.
This was our cue to get some beers out of the cooler and prepare for the hike further into the bush in search of Sulphur Springs.
This deep into the rainforest, everything grows. Fresh cocoa (pictured above), nutmeg, cinnamon, mangoes, avocados, bananas, plums, plantain, and an assortment of tropical fruits are in such abundance that it actually rains down on the roads before people can harvest and eat it all.
With this pallet of greenery around us, the short walk was far from a chore, despite the humidity and heat.
Finally reaching the springs was a treat. The naturally warm waist-deep water didn’t smell of acrid sulphur in the way that many natural hot pools tend to reek. It was easy to settle in and get comfortable.
The mud at the base of the warm stream that feeds the spring is reputedly therapeutic. So we all took turns collecting the mud and spreading it on our skin for softening and exfoliation. Indeed – it felt delightful, and left my skin softer than it has been for ages.
Want to “experience” the journey to Sulphur Springs yourself? Check out this short (2-minute) video of our trip. Best to pour yourself a rum first, to get into the real feel of it!
You can also watch this on YouTube.